Vermicomposting Basics

If you can’t compost outdoors, vermicomposting is your answer! Vermicomposting uses Red Wriggler worms to convert food waste and organic material into a nutrient-rich natural fertilizer that you can use in many different ways. The finished product is primarily worm castings (poo), but it is also a fun way to learn about how waste can be turned into a valuable resource! 

Why Vermicompost?

• It can be done indoors! It’s especially great for apartment-dwellers and others who don’t have space outdoors.
• It happens fast as red wriggler worms can eat about half their own body weight in food per day.
• It does not smell if it is done properly.
• Worm compost is an excellent natural fertilizer that is even richer in nutrients than outdoor compost.
• A little worm “poo” goes a long way!

How Do I Get Started?

First, you’ll need to make or purchase a vermicompost bin. A simple Rubbermaid bin will do the job! After securing your bin, you’ll need to purchase some Red Wriggler worms. These worms are different from others in that they prefer living near the surface. They can consume and process large amounts of organic material in a relatively short time, they reproduce quickly under the right conditions, and are very happy to live in a small container. We recommend purchasing at least 1/2 lb of Red Wrigglers to start.

Where to Buy Red Wriggler Worms? 

There are a number of locations in Manitoba where you can purchase what you need to get started:

• Mike Jaques – Sarto, Manitoba. Phone: (204)-434-6887 or Email: mikewormguy@gmail.com
• Art Crane – St. Andrews, Manitoba. Phone: (204) 482-1244 or Email: acrane1950@gmail.com
• Smiley Worms – Brandon, Manitoba. Website: www.smileyworms.ca 

Setting Up Your Worm Bin

Red Wrigglers are most productive at room temperature, so exposure to hot conditions or temperatures below 10° C should be avoided, as your worms can die in extreme temperatures. Keeping your worms indoors year round is likely your best option. Store your bin anywhere that is easy to access, like under your kitchen sink, in a closet, or your basement. Place your bin on a tray or another bin to collect any excess liquid that might drip out through the bottom. Before you can put your worms in your bin, you need to provide them with some moist bedding material, such as shredded newspaper. Glossy paper like flyers or magazines should not be used. The bedding should be about as wet as a wrung-out sponge and you can easily wet down your bedding by using a spray bottle. Bedding is an important component because it will help regulate moisture while providing a medium in which your worms can live. Your worms should be covered with a layer of bedding at all times. Don’t pack it down as red wrigglers like loose bedding as they don’t burrow as well as garden earthworms. When you first start your bin you can add a handful of soil or sand just to help things get started.

Feeding the Worms

Red wriggler worms are vegetarians. While they can eat most foods that you would put in an outdoor compost bin, there are some important differences. Foods like citrus peels and coffee grounds can make the bin acidic and should only be added in moderation. Crushed or finely ground egg shells will help control acidity and also provide the worms with valuable nutrition. 

It is best to collect your worm food (organic material) in a container and feed your worms once or twice a week. To help break the food down more quickly, you can cut or chop it into small pieces. Storing food in the freezer also helps break it down and reduces any odours from the stored food. Always thaw the food before feeding your worms. Here are the good, the bad, and the moderate foods you can feed your worms:

Good Foods

Fruit and vegetable scraps, tea leaves and bags.

In Moderation

Coffee grounds, citrus, onions, bread, rice, pasta

Bad Foods

Meat/fish/bones, dairy products, oily foods, large pits or stones

You should be feeding the worms every 1-2 weeks as needed. Before adding food to the bin, see if there is any uneaten food. If that is the case, then you shouldn’t add any more food into the bin. If you add too much food, it will get moldy and smelly and will make the bin too wet. When adding food to the bin, push all of the composted material to one side, and then place the new food on the empty side. This will help to keep the decomposed materials and fresh food scraps separate. It also helps to keep worms moving and find the new food more easily. After adding food scraps, put some bedding on top. If you find that the bin is quite dry, skip this step. If you find that the bin is too moist, you can add additional bedding to soak up the extra moisture. It’s a good idea to make yourself a plan to follow and mark where you placed the food last. By the time you get back to the first position most of the food should be at least partially composted

Maintenance

There is not a lot to do other than feeding the worms regularly and harvesting your compost when it’s ready. However, worms need moist environments to “breathe” through their skin, so it’s important to keep an eye on the moisture content in the bin. If it is too dry, the worms will not do their job and can even die. If it’s too wet, the worms can drown and your bin can begin to smell.

Making holes in the bottom of your worm bin will help to keep the bin from getting too wet, but you still need to check it regularly. If the bin is too dry, you can use a spray bottle to dampen the bedding until it’s as wet as a wrung-out sponge. If the bin seems too wet, you can add additional dry bedding to help absorb the extra moisture.

Harvesting Your Compost

After about 2-3 months, there should be a few inches of vermicompost that is brown and looks like wet soil. You’ll know you need to harvest the compost once half of the bin is filled with vermicompost. You don’t want to wait until the bin is filled to the top because it will become too compacted at the bottom, causing the bin to get smelly. There are several methods for harvesting the finished compost from your worm bin:

Food Migration Method

Move all of your bin contents to one side and put a fresh layer of bedding on the empty side, and bury food under the bedding. After a few weeks, the worms will migrate to the fresh food, leaving the finished compost almost free of worms and will be much easier to harvest. 

Light Method

Open your bin and shine a flashlight for a few minutes over the compost. The worms will burrow down away from the light because they prefer dark places. Carefully scrape away the top layer of the compost. 

Dump and Sort Method

Simply dump all the contents of the bin onto a tray and pick out the vermicast/finished compost.

Questions?

• Check out our vermicomposting presentations
• Vermicomposting Booklet (English)
• Vermicomposting Booklet (French)